Gasoline RV Heaters: Apollo G1, GC5 & GH5 for Vans, Campers, and Motorhomes

A gasoline parking heater burns gasoline straight from your RV's existing fuel tank to deliver 8 hours of cabin heat for under $2.30 a night, even at full power on Vvkb's 2KW Apollo G1. You probably hit this wall the first cold night out: the propane bottle runs dry at 3 AM, every "diesel heater" on Amazon needs a diesel tank you don't have, and your factory furnace drains the house batteries before sunrise. A gasoline heater fixes all three problems by tapping the same fuel tank your engine already runs on.

This guide covers the three gasoline heaters Vvkb manufactures for RVs — the Apollo G1 (2KW forced-air heater for vans and small campers), the Apollo GC5 (5KW water heater that doubles as an engine pre-heater on cold mornings), and the Apollo GH5 (3-in-1 system that delivers hot shower water, floor heating, and cabin air from one unit). You'll see specs, real overnight fuel costs, install difficulty, and a 4-question decision tree to pick the right model — whether you're in a 4x4 camper van, a Class B motorhome, or a 40-foot Class A.

How a Gasoline Heater Works — And Why Diesel Models Won't Fit a Petrol RV

A gasoline parking heater is a self-contained combustion unit that pulls fuel from your RV's existing gasoline tank and outputs 6,824–17,061 BTU (2–5 kW) of dry heat directly into your cabin — no propane bottle, no shore power, no inverter required. It mounts under the floor or in a side bay. A small metering pump taps your fuel line, and an exhaust pipe under 1 inch (22–24mm) routes combustion gases out under the vehicle.

Industry calls this a gasoline parking heater, a gasoline forced air heater, or simply a gas powered heater — they all describe the same category. The defining feature: a 12V or 24V automotive combustion unit, purpose-built to run on petrol. That's different from home-furnace forced-air units, which need household 120V/240V power and burn natural gas.

Inside, a gasoline air heater runs two separate fans, shown in the exploded view below. A combustion air fan feeds the sealed chamber where the fuel actually burns, while a separate hot air blower pushes your cabin air across the heat exchanger. The two airflows never touch — exhaust stays sealed in its own loop and exits under the vehicle, so combustion fumes never reach the air you breathe.

If you've already shopped Amazon, you've probably seen 200+ "diesel parking heaters" priced at $80–$200. You cannot run any of them on gasoline. Here's why:

• Air-to-fuel ratio is different. Gasoline needs roughly 14.7:1 air-to-fuel; diesel runs with different atomization and ignition timing. Forcing gasoline through a diesel-tuned heater dumps unburned fuel into the combustion chamber.
• Flash point and autoignition behavior are opposite. Gasoline has a low flash point but a high autoignition temperature — it needs a spark or hot surface to ignite. Diesel is the reverse: it self-ignites under pressure and heat. A diesel heater's glow plug timing is calibrated for the heavier, slower diesel flame front.
• The ceramic glow plug isn't interchangeable. Vvkb's Apollo gasoline series uses a Kyocera ceramic glow plug tuned for gasoline's faster, lighter combustion. The control board reads tiny resistance changes to confirm ignition. A generic diesel plug throws off those readings, and the board can't reliably tell whether the unit actually lit.

In 30 years of manufacturing parking heaters at Vvkb, we've seen owners try to "convert" cheap diesel units to run on gas. The result: hard starts, sooty exhaust, reduced output, faulty ignition. The fix is a heater designed for gasoline from the combustion chamber out — like the Apollo G1, GC5, and GH5 lineup.

Three Vvkb Apollo Models for Your RV at a Glance

Vvkb manufactures three gasoline heaters for RVs, and they solve three different problems. The Apollo G1 blows warm air into your cabin. The Apollo GC5 heats your cabin through a coolant loop and pre-heats your engine. The Apollo GH5 does all of that plus hot shower water and floor heating. Here's how they compare side by side:

The split is simple. If you only need to take the chill off a van or small camper, the G1 air heater is the lightest, least expensive and fastest-to-install option. If you want your cabin warm and your engine easier to start on a frozen morning, step up to the GC5 water heater. And if you're living in your rig full-time and want hot showers and warm floors on top of cabin heat, the GH5 replaces three separate appliances with one unit.

The next three sections break down each model in detail — specs, real-world performance, and exactly who each one is built for.

Apollo G1: 2KW Air Heater for Vans and Pickup Campers

The Apollo G1 is a 2 kW forced-air gasoline heater that blows warm air within about 90 seconds and runs on roughly 20 watts once it's lit — light enough to live on your house batteries overnight. At 2.7 kg, it's the smallest and cheapest heater in the Apollo gasoline lineup, built for the spaces most RVers actually heat: a camper van, a truck bed camper, or a small Class B.

Everything for a standard install is in the box — controller, fuel pump, ducting, exhaust muffler, and hardware.

Key specs

• Heat output: 2 kW (6,824 BTU)
• Fuel use: 0.08 GPH (0.30 L/hr) at full power
• Weight: 2.7 kg
• Power draw: 5.5A at startup, 1.7A running (≈20 watts)
• Voltage: 12V
• Altitude: works up to 11,483 ft (3,500 m)
• Ignition: Kyocera ceramic glow plug
• Certifications: CE, RoHS

Who it's built for

The G1 makes the most sense if you heat one open space and want the simplest possible install. It's an air heater, so it ducts warm air straight into the cabin — no coolant loop, no plumbing, no engine connection. You mount the unit, run an intake and exhaust pipe under the floor, tap the fuel line, and wire it to 12V. Most owners finish the job in an afternoon.

Real-world performance

You'll feel warm air in about 90 seconds from a cold start, and the G1 holds temperature in a van down to -40°F (-40°C). Because it draws just 1.7A once running, a single overnight run won't flatten a healthy house battery — a real advantage over the factory furnace, which cycles a power-hungry blower all night.

The one number to plan around is fuel. At full power the G1 burns 0.30 L/hr, so a worst-case 8-hour run on max heat uses about 2.4 liters — under $2.30 a night at current US gas prices. In practice the heater throttles down once the cabin is warm, so most nights cost less than that.

If your RV runs on gasoline and you want quick, simple cabin heat without touching your coolant system, the Apollo G1 gasoline air heater is the model to start with.

Apollo GC5: 5KW Gasoline Water Heater for Cabin Heat and Engine Pre-Heat

The Apollo GC5 is a 5.2 kW gasoline water heater that does two jobs at once — it heats your cabin through the coolant loop and pre-heats your engine block so it starts easier on a frozen morning. Where the G1 blows hot air, the GC5 circulates heated coolant, giving you the even, quiet warmth of a hydronic system instead of a blower cycling on and off.

Key specs

• Heat output: 5.2 kW (17,742 BTU) at full power, 2.5 kW at part load
  
• Fuel use: 0.61 L/hr full / 0.30 L/hr part load
• Weight: 2.9 kg
• Dimensions: 214 × 106 × 168 mm
• Voltage: 12V (operating range 10.5–15V)
• Power draw: 28W at full power (excluding pump and fan)
• Operating temperature: down to -40°F (-40°C)
• Ignition: Kyocera ceramic glow plug
• Certifications: CE, RoHS

Why a water heater does two jobs

A water heater plumbs into your engine's coolant loop, and that's what makes the GC5 more than a cabin heater. Run it parked, and it warms the cabin while quietly pre-heating your engine. When you turn the key the next morning, you're starting a warm engine — easier on the battery, easier on the starter, and faster to defrost the windshield. The G1 can't do this; an air heater has no connection to your engine.

Who it's built for

The GC5 fits Class B and Class C motorhomes, and anyone parking in genuinely cold country. If you regularly wake up to frozen mornings and hard starts, the engine pre-heat alone can justify the step up from the G1. The trade-off is install complexity: the GC5 needs a coolant loop with at least 4 liters of circuit volume and 20mm hose runs, so plan on a longer install than the air-heater G1 — or hand it to a shop.

Built-in safety

Unlike air heaters, water heaters lock out after two failed ignition attempts, so the unit won't keep pumping fuel into a chamber that isn't lighting. The GC5 also carries overheat protection and shuts down automatically if coolant temperature climbs too high.

The Apollo GC5 gasoline water heater costs more than the G1. The difference buys you one unit that warms the cabin and pre-heats the engine.

Apollo GH5: 3-in-1 Hot Water, Floor Heating, and Cabin Air

The Apollo GH5 is a 5.2 kW gasoline hydronic system that does three jobs from one unit — it delivers hot shower water, warms your floor, and heats your cabin air, all running off your RV's gasoline tank. Where the GC5 heats your cabin and engine, the GH5 adds domestic hot water and floor heating on top, replacing what would otherwise be three separate appliances.

Key specs 

• Heat output: 5.2 kW (17,742 BTU) at full power, 2.5 kW at part load
• Fuel use: 0.61 L/hr full / 0.30 L/hr part load
• Voltage: 12V (9–16V)
• Air heating: 1.7 kW blower matrix
• Operating temperature: down to -40°F (-40°C)
• Ignition: Kyocera ceramic glow plug
• Certifications: CE, RoHS (GC5 heater unit)

Three jobs in one system 

Simplified diagram showing how one Apollo GH5 delivers hot water, floor heating, and cabin air. Actual plumbing follows the included installation manual.

The GH5 earns its place in a full-size rig by combining three heating tasks most RVs handle with separate gear. At its core is the same GC5 unit, which heats engine coolant. That hot coolant then runs through a heat-exchanger tank, where it warms your domestic water without the two ever mixing — so your shower water never touches the combustion system. The same coolant also feeds floor loops and a 1.7 kW air blower.

One thing to plan for: the GH5 needs a hot water storage tank, and you supply that separately based on the capacity you want. The heater and the tank install separately, which actually gives you more flexibility in where each one goes.

Engine heat recovery 

Here's the feature that sets the GH5 apart. While you're driving, it captures waste heat from your running engine through a heat-exchanger tank and uses it to heat your domestic water. You arrive at camp with hot water you didn't burn any extra fuel to make. Once the engine is off, the GH5 switches back to active gasoline combustion to keep the water hot.

Who it's built for 

The GH5 is built for Class A motorhomes and full-timers who want hot showers, warm floors, and cabin heat without bolting in three different systems. The Apollo GH5 gasoline hot water system costs the most of the three, but it's positioned against premium hydronic systems like Aqua-Hot and Truma Combi that run several times the price. If you're weighing a full hydronic setup, we cover that comparison in detail in our RV hydronic heating system guide.

How to Choose: 4 Questions Before You Buy

Picking the right gasoline heater for your RV comes down to four questions — about your vehicle, your heat needs, your climate, and your budget. Work through them in order and you'll land on one model.

1. Is your RV actually gasoline-powered? 

This is the first filter, because a gasoline heater only works if you have gasoline to feed it. Check what your engine burns. If your rig runs on gasoline, any of the three Apollo models fits. If you run a diesel engine, stop here — you want a diesel air heater or a diesel water heater instead, both built for diesel's different combustion.

2. Do you only need cabin heat, or hot water too? 

This is the question that splits the lineup. If you just want to take the chill off your living space, the Apollo G1 air heater does that for the lowest price and the simplest install. If you also want easier cold starts, step up to the GC5, which pre-heats your engine through the coolant loop. And if you want hot showers and warm floors on top of cabin heat, only the GH5 delivers all three.

3. How cold and how high do you camp? 

For most buyers, climate doesn't narrow the choice — it just confirms any model will work. All three Apollo heaters run down to -40°F (-40°C) and are rated to adjust automatically for altitude up to 11,483 ft (3,500 m), so you don't touch a setting as you climb. Above about 6,000 ft, run them on the upper heat levels and give them a full-power burn at the end of each trip.

4. What's your budget?

Price tracks capability across the three models. The G1 costs the least and heats cabin air. The GC5 adds engine pre-heat. The GH5 is the full hot-water-and-floor-heat system. If you're also pricing a Webasto or Espar, our Webasto gasoline heater comparison puts the G1 next to both, including where the G1 falls short. If cabin warmth is all you need, there's no reason to pay for plumbing you won't use — and if you want a full hydronic setup, the GH5 still undercuts premium systems that cost several times as much.

Gasoline Heater for a Van: Transit, ProMaster and Sprinter

A gasoline van is the simplest place to fit a gasoline heater, because the fuel is already on board. Most van owners who end up with a diesel heater do it because the cheap heaters are all diesel. Then they have to work out where a second fuel tank goes, and whether they want diesel sitting inside the cabin.

For a cargo van, 2 kW is usually plenty. On r/vandwellers, a ProMaster owner running a 4 kW gasoline Espar at 20°F (-7°C) said it got almost too warm, and ran the roof fan on exhaust to keep the temperature comfortable. A Sprinter owner with a 5 kW unit said it cooks them out above about 40°F (4°C). That's the size range the 2 kW G1 is built for.

Where the fuel comes from in each van

The Apollo G1 kit includes a universal fuel standpipe and a fuel filter. If you'd rather use your van's auxiliary port, you'll need an adapter for your model, bought separately. On a Transit, the port's wider 6 mm tube can let the pump lose its prime; the included standpipe avoids that. Either way, the heater's pickup sits higher in the tank than the engine's, so it stops drawing fuel first. A Transit owner found theirs quits at about a quarter tank, so plan your refills around it if you run the heater a lot.

Lowering the tank for a standpipe

Owners who have done it say the tank is lighter than they expected if it's nearly empty. One Transit owner supported it on blocks and lowered it slowly. Installers add three precautions: test the tank's fuel pump before you hang the tank back up, keep debris out of the opening, and have a fire extinguisher within reach.

Mounting spot and floor holes

In a Transit, the usual place for a 2 kW heater is under the front passenger seat. FarOutRide publishes a printable template for the floor cutout. Measure your own seat base before you cut anything.

You don't have to cut one 5-inch (125 mm) hole. Some installers do, and cover it with a turret plate. Others drill two holes just bigger than the intake and exhaust pipes, plus a small one for the fuel line. Check what's under the floor before you drill, and paint the bare metal edges so they don't rust. Seal the pipe holes with high-temp silicone, fit a rubber grommet where the fuel line passes through the metal, and keep insulation and wood away from the exhaust pipe.

Keeping the pump quiet

The fuel pump ticks, and anything metal carries the sound into the van. Mount the pump on rubber, and wrap the fuel line in foam wherever it touches the body. One installer who has fitted several heaters said they could barely hear the pump afterward.

What to Expect When You Install It

Installing a Vvkb gasoline heater takes about 1.5 to 2 hours if you know your way around a vehicle, or 2 to 3 hours if you're newer to this kind of work. That doesn't count lowering the fuel tank, if your van needs a standpipe fitted. The G1 air heater is the quicker of the two setups; the GC5 and GH5 take a little longer because they plumb into the coolant loop. None of it requires welding, and the most involved part is mounting the unit and routing the pipes.

DIY or professional install?

If you're comfortable with basic 12V wiring and working under your rig, the G1 air heater is a realistic two-hour project. The GC5 and GH5 take a little longer because they tie into your coolant system, which means bleeding air out of the loop and getting the plumbing right. If you'd rather not crawl under the vehicle, any RV service shop or 12V installer can handle the job — bring them the heater and the included instructions.

The common install steps

Every Apollo gasoline heater follows the same core install:

• Mount the unit under the floor or in a sealed bay.
• Tap the fuel line from your existing gasoline tank using the supplied metering pump.
• Route the combustion air intake and exhaust to the outside, under the vehicle.
• Wire it to 12V through the controller.

The G1 then ducts warm air into your cabin. The GC5 and GH5 add one more step — plumbing the unit into a coolant loop with at least 4 liters of circuit volume, using 20mm hose. That coolant step is the main reason the water heaters take longer to fit.

Safety steps you can't skip

Three rules matter more than the rest. Point the exhaust outlet down or slightly to the rear — never toward the direction of travel. The G1 kit includes a muffler, but we recommend leaving it off: the extra back-pressure speeds up carbon buildup on a gasoline burner. Fit it only if you want a quieter exhaust and will do more frequent burn-offs. Always switch the heater off before you refuel, and label the filler to remind yourself. And install a carbon monoxide detector in your sleeping area, the same as you would with any combustion heater.

This is the overview. A full step-by-step install guide with photos is worth its own article — but if you want the complete factory procedure now, it ships in the box with every unit.

What Does Overnight Heat Actually Cost?

A gasoline heater runs cheap. At a US average of $3.50 a gallon, an 8-hour overnight run costs about $2.24 on the G1 and $2.24 to $4.51 on the GC5 or GH5, depending on how hard they work. And those are worst-case numbers — all three throttle down once your cabin is warm, so most nights cost less.

Here's the math for an 8-hour run at $3.50/gallon:

The bigger win isn't the per-night number — it's the fuel source. A gasoline heater pulls from the tank you already fill at every gas station. You're not buying disposable 1 lb propane bottles at $5 to $8 each, you're not hauling and swapping cylinders, and you're not watching the bottle run dry at 3 AM. One tank runs your engine and your heat.

Propane still has its place, and bulk-refilled propane competes with gasoline on raw cost per BTU. But the small green bottles most RVers grab are far more expensive per unit of heat, and they add a second fuel you have to track. A gasoline heater removes that whole problem.

Safety and Certifications

All three Apollo gasoline heaters carry CE, RoHS certifications — independent marks covering electrical safety, restricted hazardous materials, and electromagnetic compatibility. These aren't self-declared specs. You can check the product certifications directly, which matters when you're putting a combustion appliance in the space you sleep in. Full technical specifications for all three models are on the Vvkb gasoline heater page.

Beyond the paperwork, each model is built to shut itself down before a problem turns dangerous. Every Apollo heater has overheat protection that cuts power if temperatures climb too high. The GC5 and GH5 add an ignition lockout — after two failed ignition attempts, the unit stops pumping fuel instead of flooding the chamber. And because these are sealed-combustion heaters, the air that feeds the flame and the exhaust that leaves it stay in their own loop, separate from the air you breathe.

Two habits make the system safer still. Always switch the heater off before you refuel — it's a manufacturer requirement, and a label on your filler cap is a cheap reminder. And install a carbon monoxide detector in your sleeping area. Sealed combustion makes these heaters safe by design, but a CO detector is standard practice with any fuel-burning appliance, and it costs less than a tank of gas.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do gasoline heaters carbon up faster than diesel? How do I prevent it?

Gasoline does carbon up faster than diesel — that part is true. But how fast depends almost entirely on the air-fuel ratio, and that's where most heaters fall short. Gasoline burns clean only within a narrow air-fuel window, and a tiny miscalibration leaves unburned fuel that bakes into carbon. Vvkb has spent 30 years building fuel-burning heaters and collecting combustion data, and we use it to tune each Apollo's air-fuel ratio tightly — so it carbons up far slower than a poorly calibrated unit. You can slow it further by running the heater on high for 5–10 minutes before you shut down for travel, which burns off residue, and by cleaning the unit per the manual.

Will a gasoline heater work at high altitude?

Yes, within its rating. Every Apollo gasoline heater is rated to adjust its air-fuel mix automatically up to 11,483 ft (3,500 m), so you don't change a setting as you climb. Above about 6,000 ft, run it on the upper heat levels (L7–L9) and give it a full-power burn at the end of each trip. Thin air makes any gasoline burner carbon up faster, and those two habits keep it clean.

Will it drain my RV battery overnight?

No. Once it's running, the Apollo G1 draws just 1.7 amps — about 20 watts — at 12V. Startup pulls 5.5 amps for a few seconds while the glow plug fires, then it settles down. An 8-hour overnight run uses roughly 14 amp-hours, well within a healthy house battery. That's a real advantage over a propane furnace, whose blower cycles a much hungrier fan all night.

Can I run a gasoline heater in a diesel RV, or diesel in a gasoline rig?

No — and it's not worth the risk. Gasoline and diesel burn at completely different air-fuel ratios and ignite differently, so a heater built for one runs badly on the other: hard starts, heavy carbon, and lost output. If your RV runs on diesel, choose a diesel air or water heater instead. Always match the heater to the fuel your engine already burns.

Gasoline or propane — which is better for my van?

It depends on how you travel, but gasoline has one big edge: it runs off the tank you already fill. There's no second fuel to buy, carry, or run out of. Propane puts out strong heat and is available everywhere, but you're swapping bottles and watching levels. On cost, a gasoline heater runs about $2 to $4.50 a night — competitive with bulk propane and far cheaper than disposable 1 lb bottles. If your rig is gasoline-powered, a gasoline heater is usually the simpler call.

What makes the Apollo different from a cheap Amazon gasoline heater?

Two things: safety and calibration. A cheap gasoline heater often skips certification, which means no independent testing of a unit that burns gasoline — and gasoline's flash point is -43°C, far lower than diesel's, so a single failed seal or O-ring can turn into a real fire hazard. Vvkb's Apollo heaters are CE and RoHS certified, use a Kyocera ceramic glow plug for reliable ignition, and include a gasoline-rated fuel filter to keep the line from clogging. You're paying for combustion that's properly tuned and tested — not a unit assembled to a price.

Will a heater tapped into my gas tank leave me stranded?

No, not if the pickup is installed correctly. The heater's standpipe or auxiliary pickup sits higher in the tank than the engine's pickup, so the heater runs out first. On a gasoline Transit, owners report the auxiliary port stops drawing at about a quarter tank. The G1 also uses at most about 0.63 gallons (2.4 L) in an 8-hour night at full heat.

Is a gasoline heater more dangerous than a diesel heater?

The combustion side carries the same risks, but the fuel side needs more care. Gasoline gives off flammable vapor at -45°F (-43°C), while diesel doesn't until roughly 100–125°F (38–52°C). That makes fuel-line quality matter more: gasoline-rated tubing, good clamps, and a filter on the suction side of the pump. Keep the fuel line out of your sleeping space, switch the heater off before you refuel, and run a CO alarm, the same as with any combustion heater.

Which Apollo Is Right for Your RV?

For most RV owners, the Apollo G1 covers everything you need — simple cabin heat for the lowest price in the lineup, running off the gasoline tank you already fill. Step up only if you want more than warm air.

Here's the short version:

• Choose the G1 if you want simple, low-cost cabin heat for a van or small camper.
• Choose the GC5 if you also want your engine pre-heated for easier cold starts.
• Choose the GH5 if you're living in your rig and want hot showers and warm floors on top of cabin heat.

All three run on gasoline, work down to -40°F (-40°C), are rated to adjust automatically up to 11,483 ft (3,500 m), and carry CE and RoHS certification — backed by 30 years of fuel-heater manufacturing. The only real question is how much you want one heater to do.

Ready to pick yours?

• Shop the Apollo G1 → — 2KW air heater
• Shop the Apollo GC5 → — 5KW water heater
• Shop the Apollo GH5 → — 3-in-1 system

Related Reading

• Webasto Gasoline Heater Alternatives: Air Top 2000 STC vs Espar S3 vs Apollo G1 — price, altitude and owner problems, side by side
• What You Need to Know About RV Heaters — a plain-English intro to your RV heating options
• Diesel Heater for Camper: Complete Owner's Guide — the diesel side, if your rig runs on diesel instead
• Portable Diesel Heater for RV: When It Makes Sense — a movable option you don't have to mount